Dec 16th to 20th
And so back to Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital and a city of quarters, old and new, French and Asian, chaotic and yet organised, shopping streets and hidden passageways. We were now in intense mode to pack as much in – to our remaining time, our suitcases and as it turns out, our tummies.
Food in Vietnam has been a relevation – everyone says that it is good – but it really is. The balance of flavours inherent in the steaming bowls of pho and banh is insane. Whether those noodles come from a restaurant menu, a local eatery with a single item menu or the kerbside. The kerbside in Hanoi is a well used place – not so much for walking along but for selling, parking mopeds, lighting a fie to keep warm (the temperature had dropped by 10 degrees and most Virtnamese were very well wrapped. A chance encounter with Jim and Wendy from the island of Niue near Tonga, led us to walking ‘a few’ kilometers for the best beef cheek pho made with thick noodles and stock that has been honed to perfection literally over generations. We followed vague directions and google maps. On arrival we were directed upstairs without asking and then as we tried to work out where a menu was – 2 bowls of noodles arrived. They are so good you do not need to be asked whether you want them or not. Thanks Jim for the recommendation.
We have resorted to tripadvisor for many recommendations and it is interesting to see the ‘tripadviser affect’. Once a place gets good reviews and the highly coveted 5*’s you can see tourists and travellers alike following their phones. And that is not always easy in Hanoi. Google tells you you have arrived and then the fun begins. Restaurants, and bars of all varieties are off the street and often above ground level. Entrances are inconspicious and sometimes damn near impossible to find.
We made it to the clouds (Cumulus restaurant) with dogged determination but it was worth it. Plates of food arrived including the Betal wrapped beef and amazing aubergines from a tiny kitchen area. We found bars and western looking pubs down alleys that you would swear were heading to someone’s front room. Always greeted by a smile and a nod towards a table. However we never did find the shop that TIm ‘tripadvisored’ as the best to find a reliable suitcase despite walking up, down and around a small block quite a few times to the amusement of school children leaving school for the christmas holidays.
Christmas street is quite a thing in Hanoi – bearing in mind our Christmas exposure had started early with decorations up everywhere in the Philippines we were still enchanted by the sheer level of tinsel, glitter and fake snow in shop after shop selling christmas by the moped load.
We spent our penultimate day travelling with a local walking guide in an area of Hanoi that was offf the tourist path. Trang Chu met us and took us around her local area, Nghia Tan, taking in markets, temples and housing. We spoke with an older couple who were very keen on the UK. He had trained as an engineer in England. They lived in housing that had been out up while under communist rule and was, or had started life as very utilitarian. However over time the Vietnamese have got inventive with how to extend – boxes appear on the side of buildings a few floors up, canterlevered into position and stable whilst appearing very definitely not to be. No planning permission is required or at least sought for and it is far cheaper to bolt on than move. Although small and appearing down at heel there are small play areas in the middle of tower blocks and the area was busy and well lived.
Once Trang Chu left us we wandered into the Vietnamese Museum of Ethnology. Fascinating but, as I find with all museums, sometime too much of one thing can just be too much…. call me a philistine but I like my culture in smaller doses and usually with refreshment, not too dry.
Our last excursion in Vietnam was a wonderful example of how far we have come since starting our travels. At the beginning we didn’t trust either ourselves or strangers easily. We did not ask for help as freely as we should have and possibly misssed opportunities because of this – neither Tim nor I are naturally gregarious or outgoing. The internet is a revelation in helping travel but it can also allow you to stay a little seperate as you can always ask google rather than a person. We wanted to see ‘Train street’ in action but had read conflicting accounts of how to get access at the right time and where to go.
We failed miserably on first attempt despite learning the train schedule and going to the most likely access point. Uniformed railway staff prevented access to the tracks. Ready to give in we consoled ourselves with thoughts of how much we had seen everyhere else and turned to walk back. Mr Tran called to us and asked if we wanted to see the train that evening. After a few seconds of wondering ‘is this a scam?’ we agreed we did and he gave us his card asking us where we were staying and noted this down in his small notebook alongside a time. We gave cash. He then approached others with the same words…… I know, I know – what an earner…. BUT at the appointed time Mr and Mrs Tran showed up at our hotel – on mopeds. We plonked ourselves one on the back of each and trusted again. Suffice to say the train is VERY big and VERY close. Without Mr Tran and a bit of trust we would not have been there for our last night – we probably would have been lost up another alley looking for a drink and very possibly ended up in someone’s front room.
And so we hurtled towards our last travel (actually night)- as quickly and unswervingly as the train came towards us on the tracks. There was no escaping it and we were down to our last few hours of rabid shopping, packing, eating the last Banh Mi, a little bit more shopping (after all we are going back to Christmas, so you cannot go empty handed) and repacking MORE bags. Homeward bound Hanoi to Heathrow……….
